“This is the Kenya we want”

Saturday night, downtown Nairobi, a quarter past seven, the city has almost gone dark. In the bus (Citi Hoppa) with direction Jamhuri we are awaiting our departure. Which is not scheduled according to a timetable, the ride will only start once all seats are taken.

While the bus is filling up slowly, one of the passengers at the back of the bus starts making weird sounds and shaking her head. Everyone turns to see what is going on. Even before the lady starts convulsing, several passengers shout: “She is having an epileptic attack!” They rise immediately to give first aid. And they know exactly what to do. The lady is laid down flat on the back bench of the bus; a pen is clenched between her jaws to prevent her choking in her tongue.

My love takes care of her glasses and keeps them in his custody. Meanwhile another passenger has found her mobile phone, searches the address book and calls her mother. “What do you usually do in such a situation?” This seems to be the only logical question, in a country where one cannot simply dial 911 in case of a medical emergency. Ambulances do exist, but are available only to those patients with a paid registration. And for the average Kenyan this kind of membership is beyond his or her reach.

Slowly the lady is regaining consciousness. The bus has filled up in the meantime, except for the seats on the back bench. And although every seat is an important income generator, both the driver and conductor decide to depart nevertheless. Off we go, this time not driving like mad as all busses and matatus normally do. On the contrary, the conductor urges the driver to drive pole pole (slowly). Which is remarkable, as all rides are usually operated in the greatest rush, thus providing a maximum income in a day, by rattling off as many rides as possible – the Kenyan ‘public’ transport is a private business.

The common idea about Africa is that abnormal behaviour is seen as insanity of bewitched persons, who need to be hidden in remote places and be kept away as far as possible. Even when this so-called insanity has a medical cause, like in the case of epilepsy. Not in this African bus, though. Everyone knows exactly what is happening and what to do. The sense of community is large, as both passengers and crew unify in taking this lady home safely. Nairobi turns out to be not that hard and rough after all.