Is booking a ticket tempting the gods?
The new ticket was there, departure was set for January 31st. That day the adventure would really start. Finally I would fly to Nairobi.
Nevertheless I was still being very cautious, as I mailed my friends: "I will not start believing this until I really have set foot on African soil."
I could not have been more right: my departure has been postponed again. Though it is no surprise following the recent rise of violence in Kenya.
And here I find myself, still 'in between lives'. My life in the Netherlands is concluded and packed into many boxes, my new life in Nairobi is yet about to start - but when?
Now what? Annan to the rescue?
The statements mediator Kofi Annan and his counterparts Raila Odinga and Mwai Kibaki made this afternoon, gave me a little bit of hope. And that hope is hopefully growing within lots of Kenyans. Hope that everything will turn out right. Eventually.
Quote of the day:
"Unless we resolve our differences to save our nation, there might be no nation left to save." (Raila Odinga)
Wednesday, 30 January 2008
Saturday, 19 January 2008
“Which tribe are you?”
“Hello Monique, which tribe are you?” During my earlier visits to Kenya I have been greeted this way many times. A greeting with a smile, showing a great sense of humour. Cause there is no question about it: obviously, I am a mzungu (white person).
Like everywhere in Africa, greeting rituals in Kenya are elaborate. When someone’s name does not disclose his or her background immediately, the tribal question is the next to ask. Previously a quite innocent question, solely meant to get acquainted. Nowadays a question that leaves a bitter taste. The tribal question has evolved into a very serious issue.
Ongata Rongai is a town located about twenty kilometres south of Nairobi. Kenyans from all over the county gather here and live together in peace. People who do not want to stay in the capital and who are able to afford a little bit more than a shelter in a slum like Kibera, are drawn to towns like Rongai. With inhabitants descending from all 42 tribes, this town is a successful example of a melting pot. Not without the regular fights or irregularities, but never with a racial undertone. Though sometimes statements like “I do not like the Kikuyu” could be heard in casual conversations in bars. But, in comparison: the Dutch are generally not that fond of the Germans either.
The big unrest did not reach Rongai in the past weeks. Because that is what life is like in this melting pot: the reality of peaceful coexistence prevails. Ongata Rongai turned out to be relatively stable. Hence it became a safe haven for many fellow Kenyans. From Kibera, but also from towns in the Rift Valley, refugees found their way to Rongai.
All of a sudden, the quiet is over. Ongata Rongai is overwhelmed by police. Inhabitants are summoned not to leave their houses. Tension is building.
And all of a sudden the violence is getting very close, leaving an even stronger sense of insecurity, as my love is living in Rongai. He is renting a small house in a local compound that acts as a symbol for the melting pot Rongai: several families living together, with a variety of backgrounds, also Kikuyu.
Everybody is forced to stay indoors, surrounded by policemen who indicate that they will not hesitate to use live bullets. It is unclear whether there is a serious threat of violence, or whether the police are only at their doorsteps to protect hem. One thing is clear: the police seem to be very good at provoking fear and confusion. A sleepless night is the result. And for the first time my love is using those dreaded words in a text message he sends me: “The issue is going into tribal.”
Like everywhere in Africa, greeting rituals in Kenya are elaborate. When someone’s name does not disclose his or her background immediately, the tribal question is the next to ask. Previously a quite innocent question, solely meant to get acquainted. Nowadays a question that leaves a bitter taste. The tribal question has evolved into a very serious issue.
Ongata Rongai is a town located about twenty kilometres south of Nairobi. Kenyans from all over the county gather here and live together in peace. People who do not want to stay in the capital and who are able to afford a little bit more than a shelter in a slum like Kibera, are drawn to towns like Rongai. With inhabitants descending from all 42 tribes, this town is a successful example of a melting pot. Not without the regular fights or irregularities, but never with a racial undertone. Though sometimes statements like “I do not like the Kikuyu” could be heard in casual conversations in bars. But, in comparison: the Dutch are generally not that fond of the Germans either.
The big unrest did not reach Rongai in the past weeks. Because that is what life is like in this melting pot: the reality of peaceful coexistence prevails. Ongata Rongai turned out to be relatively stable. Hence it became a safe haven for many fellow Kenyans. From Kibera, but also from towns in the Rift Valley, refugees found their way to Rongai.
All of a sudden, the quiet is over. Ongata Rongai is overwhelmed by police. Inhabitants are summoned not to leave their houses. Tension is building.
And all of a sudden the violence is getting very close, leaving an even stronger sense of insecurity, as my love is living in Rongai. He is renting a small house in a local compound that acts as a symbol for the melting pot Rongai: several families living together, with a variety of backgrounds, also Kikuyu.
Everybody is forced to stay indoors, surrounded by policemen who indicate that they will not hesitate to use live bullets. It is unclear whether there is a serious threat of violence, or whether the police are only at their doorsteps to protect hem. One thing is clear: the police seem to be very good at provoking fear and confusion. A sleepless night is the result. And for the first time my love is using those dreaded words in a text message he sends me: “The issue is going into tribal.”
Friday, 11 January 2008
Bad timing
“Tour operators evacuate tourists from Kenya.”
“Dutch Foreign Office advises against travelling to Kenya.”
This week the Holiday Fair is held in the Netherlands. Exotic destinations that are relatively unknown, like Rwanda, are highlighted in the news. TV commercials from the big tour operators, showing the most idyllic sceneries, dominate every commercial break.
Traditionally, January is the month to start planning the summer holidays, for the Dutch and for other Europeans. And Kenya as a destination has disappeared from every wish list. The timing of the unrest could not be any worse.
Meanwhile, in Kenya great masses are discharged. Hotels near the Mombasa beaches and in Masai Mara are closing down, until further notice. Local tour operators receive cancellation after cancellation. Staff has been sent home.
And in Kenya no work means no income. Just imagine how many people in Kenya are directly or indirectly depending on tourism… it is going to be a hard year for the Kenyans.
“Dutch Foreign Office advises against travelling to Kenya.”
This week the Holiday Fair is held in the Netherlands. Exotic destinations that are relatively unknown, like Rwanda, are highlighted in the news. TV commercials from the big tour operators, showing the most idyllic sceneries, dominate every commercial break.
Traditionally, January is the month to start planning the summer holidays, for the Dutch and for other Europeans. And Kenya as a destination has disappeared from every wish list. The timing of the unrest could not be any worse.
Meanwhile, in Kenya great masses are discharged. Hotels near the Mombasa beaches and in Masai Mara are closing down, until further notice. Local tour operators receive cancellation after cancellation. Staff has been sent home.
And in Kenya no work means no income. Just imagine how many people in Kenya are directly or indirectly depending on tourism… it is going to be a hard year for the Kenyans.
Tuesday, 8 January 2008
How bizarre
4 January 2008
How bizarre to be waking up in the Netherlands, on what should be my first morning in Kenya. And how bizarre that I will be working for the Coalition for Peace in Africa, but cannot start yet due to security reasons.
But above all, this situation is bizarre for the Kenyans.
How bizarre that their country, up till now a model of stability in Africa, can develop into a violent chaos within one week. How bizarre that terms like ‘genocide’, ‘Rwanda’ and ‘Idi Amin’ are used – Kenya was the last country in Africa to be associated with those terms… that is, up till now.
How bizarre that two men apparently are not ready enough to swallow their pride. What they seem to forget is that this is not only about the two of them, but extends first and foremost to the 36 million Kenyans.
The conflict seems to be a tribal one, at least, that is the picture all the news reports are sketching. But for many Kenyans their first and foremost struggle is to secure their fundamental democratic rights – no matter how much they long for peace and quiet, this is a struggle they are not willing to give up that easily.
And what almost every reporter seems to be forgetting: though Kibaki has won the presidential elections (whether rightfully so, or not), he did lose the parliamentary elections. Which means he is not backed any longer by a majority in parliament. Therefore he needs to form a coalition. If not, it will be close to impossible to govern Kenya for the next five years.
How bizarre to be waking up in the Netherlands, on what should be my first morning in Kenya. And how bizarre that I will be working for the Coalition for Peace in Africa, but cannot start yet due to security reasons.
But above all, this situation is bizarre for the Kenyans.
How bizarre that their country, up till now a model of stability in Africa, can develop into a violent chaos within one week. How bizarre that terms like ‘genocide’, ‘Rwanda’ and ‘Idi Amin’ are used – Kenya was the last country in Africa to be associated with those terms… that is, up till now.
How bizarre that two men apparently are not ready enough to swallow their pride. What they seem to forget is that this is not only about the two of them, but extends first and foremost to the 36 million Kenyans.
The conflict seems to be a tribal one, at least, that is the picture all the news reports are sketching. But for many Kenyans their first and foremost struggle is to secure their fundamental democratic rights – no matter how much they long for peace and quiet, this is a struggle they are not willing to give up that easily.
And what almost every reporter seems to be forgetting: though Kibaki has won the presidential elections (whether rightfully so, or not), he did lose the parliamentary elections. Which means he is not backed any longer by a majority in parliament. Therefore he needs to form a coalition. If not, it will be close to impossible to govern Kenya for the next five years.
Postponed: Mo not leaving for Kenya yet
31 December 2007
Due to the current explosive situation in Kenya following the elections, I will not be flying to Nairobi on 3 January. My departure has been postponed until the situation calms down in Kenya. When exactly is still unknown. In the next days I expect to be in close contact with Skillshare International about the situation in Kenya and about my future departure.
Meanwhile I have ended up in a crazy ‘spiral of information’ with my love. He went to his hometown Loyangalani in the north in order to cast his vote and is currently unable to travel back to Nairobi, due to the unrest. Loyangalani itself is calm, but completely blocked from all news. Radio stations do not work, the only channel in operation on the television is controlled by the government. Here in the Netherlands we turn out to be much better informed about the latest news than the Kenyans themselves. Fortunately the mobile network is back into operation. Which means that every hour an sms with the latest news is finding its way to Loyangalani.
2 pm: “Latest news. City centre of Nrb is closed, no one is allowed in. Police is announcing in Kibera that anyone leaving their house will b shot dead immediately. Heavy riots also in Mombasa & Kisii. Raila compared Kibaki 2 Idi Amin & has just called his supporters 2 a massive demonstration on Thursday.”
Nrb = Nairobi, Kenya’s capital
Kibera = biggest slum in Nairobi
Mombasa = city in Kenya
Kisii = city in Kenya
Raila = Raila Odinga, the opposition leader that according to the official result has lost the election by just a few thousand votes
Kibaki = the president, who according to the official result has been elected for a second term and was sworn in immediately after that announcement
Idi Amin = former dictator in Uganda
Due to the current explosive situation in Kenya following the elections, I will not be flying to Nairobi on 3 January. My departure has been postponed until the situation calms down in Kenya. When exactly is still unknown. In the next days I expect to be in close contact with Skillshare International about the situation in Kenya and about my future departure.
Meanwhile I have ended up in a crazy ‘spiral of information’ with my love. He went to his hometown Loyangalani in the north in order to cast his vote and is currently unable to travel back to Nairobi, due to the unrest. Loyangalani itself is calm, but completely blocked from all news. Radio stations do not work, the only channel in operation on the television is controlled by the government. Here in the Netherlands we turn out to be much better informed about the latest news than the Kenyans themselves. Fortunately the mobile network is back into operation. Which means that every hour an sms with the latest news is finding its way to Loyangalani.
2 pm: “Latest news. City centre of Nrb is closed, no one is allowed in. Police is announcing in Kibera that anyone leaving their house will b shot dead immediately. Heavy riots also in Mombasa & Kisii. Raila compared Kibaki 2 Idi Amin & has just called his supporters 2 a massive demonstration on Thursday.”
Nrb = Nairobi, Kenya’s capital
Kibera = biggest slum in Nairobi
Mombasa = city in Kenya
Kisii = city in Kenya
Raila = Raila Odinga, the opposition leader that according to the official result has lost the election by just a few thousand votes
Kibaki = the president, who according to the official result has been elected for a second term and was sworn in immediately after that announcement
Idi Amin = former dictator in Uganda
Prelude
At the start of December 2007, the Big Adventure becomes a bit more of a reality, and a bit less of an adventure into the unknown. Skillshare International has organized a pre-placement training in Birmingham. Four intensive days packed with information, on everything that Development Workers might be facing during their placement. Many subjects are touched upon, from big issues like capacity building, fundraising and social change to more practical issues like opening a bank account in the new country.
It was inspiring to be finally meeting others that are facing the same big step, thus creating our own small network to exchange experiences and expectations.
Good also to be finally getting an answer to the most trivial question in my preparation: whether or not to take my duvet. Skillshare’s opinion is that yes, I should be taking the duvet, if that helps me to quickly feel at ease in my new environment. Which puts an end to all the hesitation, I will be taking the duvet, even though according to local custom, I should be sleeping under a shuka (Masai blanket). In any case, I will be well prepared for the cold nights in July!
It was inspiring to be finally meeting others that are facing the same big step, thus creating our own small network to exchange experiences and expectations.
Good also to be finally getting an answer to the most trivial question in my preparation: whether or not to take my duvet. Skillshare’s opinion is that yes, I should be taking the duvet, if that helps me to quickly feel at ease in my new environment. Which puts an end to all the hesitation, I will be taking the duvet, even though according to local custom, I should be sleeping under a shuka (Masai blanket). In any case, I will be well prepared for the cold nights in July!
Kwaheri! *
A unique job, at a unique project, in a unique organization. For almost three years I have been working at HPR Organisation, being responsible for the PR and Communication of the event ‘Woonbeurs Amsterdam’ (the leading interior design event in the Netherlands).
HPR gave me an overwhelming farewell, making sure I am truly ready for Kenya, by supplying me with their home-made survival and memory kit.
The memory kit consists of Dutch symbols, a picture book containing all my professional highlights and an iPod filled with tunes I might need when homesick. The survival kit contains items that are not to be missed in Kenya, like mosquito spray, but also the booklet “How to survive…Kenya”, written entirely by my former colleagues. In it, they reveal their best tips and tricks, like “Trust your intuition”, “Being in a traffic jam is worse” and “Hakuna matata”. Already a classic, this booklet, which no doubt will help me through the rough times!
* Kwaheri = farewell (Swahili)
HPR gave me an overwhelming farewell, making sure I am truly ready for Kenya, by supplying me with their home-made survival and memory kit.
The memory kit consists of Dutch symbols, a picture book containing all my professional highlights and an iPod filled with tunes I might need when homesick. The survival kit contains items that are not to be missed in Kenya, like mosquito spray, but also the booklet “How to survive…Kenya”, written entirely by my former colleagues. In it, they reveal their best tips and tricks, like “Trust your intuition”, “Being in a traffic jam is worse” and “Hakuna matata”. Already a classic, this booklet, which no doubt will help me through the rough times!
* Kwaheri = farewell (Swahili)
The African perspective
Sustainable peace on the African continent. This might sound like an ideal that is only attainable in a future that is far, far away, but it is definitely an ideal worth fighting for. The Coalition for Peace in Africa (COPA), initiated and run by Africans, is operating from an African perspective. In COPA’s view, conflict situations need to be transformed into something positive, respecting the African approach, that leaves room to the different traditions and cultures that live in Africa.
COPA is a platform for anyone engaged in peace keeping and conflict transformation in Africa. COPA facilitates these organizations and individuals in their work, for instance through training, supplying information and offering network opportunities (the exchange of knowledge on different levels). COPA also plays an active role in the promotion of African-wide peace, for instance through lobbying. COPA’s domain involves the entire African continent, its central office is based in Nairobi.
http://copafrica.org
COPA is a platform for anyone engaged in peace keeping and conflict transformation in Africa. COPA facilitates these organizations and individuals in their work, for instance through training, supplying information and offering network opportunities (the exchange of knowledge on different levels). COPA also plays an active role in the promotion of African-wide peace, for instance through lobbying. COPA’s domain involves the entire African continent, its central office is based in Nairobi.
http://copafrica.org
Working and living with the locals
Sharing skills and ideas. Learning from each other through the worldwide exchange of expertise and knowledge. That is one of the fields in which Skillshare International operates.
By request of one of its partners, Skillshare temporarily assigns experts in certain fields to that partner organisation. An expert works with the partner as a volunteer, on local terms. Development Workers (DW’s) help to further professionalise the partner organization. At the same time DW’s share their skills with their local counterparts, making sure the partner is able to fulfil the position independently after the placement has ended. DW’s work and live under local circumstances, receiving a local allowance.
About Skillshare International:
Skillshare International is an international development organisation working to reduce poverty, injustice and inequality and to further economic and social development in partnership with people and communities throughout the world. Skillshare is doing this by sharing and developing skills and ideas, facilitating organisational and social change and building awareness of development issues. Skillshare’s vision is of a world without poverty, injustice and inequality where people, regardless of cultural, social and political divides, come together for mutual benefit, living in peaceful co-existence. The Coalition of Peace in Africa is a partner organization of Skillshare International.
http://www.skillshare.org
By request of one of its partners, Skillshare temporarily assigns experts in certain fields to that partner organisation. An expert works with the partner as a volunteer, on local terms. Development Workers (DW’s) help to further professionalise the partner organization. At the same time DW’s share their skills with their local counterparts, making sure the partner is able to fulfil the position independently after the placement has ended. DW’s work and live under local circumstances, receiving a local allowance.
About Skillshare International:
Skillshare International is an international development organisation working to reduce poverty, injustice and inequality and to further economic and social development in partnership with people and communities throughout the world. Skillshare is doing this by sharing and developing skills and ideas, facilitating organisational and social change and building awareness of development issues. Skillshare’s vision is of a world without poverty, injustice and inequality where people, regardless of cultural, social and political divides, come together for mutual benefit, living in peaceful co-existence. The Coalition of Peace in Africa is a partner organization of Skillshare International.
http://www.skillshare.org
“All Africans are the same”
Stereotypes and prejudice, they do exist. Africa and the African man above all, can be described in a few compact sentences, according to many. Which leads to a picture that is not too positive. ‘The White Masai’, the most successful book about a love in Kenya, is quoted extensively, being the most reliable source in many eyes. So many times I have heard that everything in this book is true. And that all descriptions are valid for any African man, because: “All African men are the same”.
But of course! Just like all European men are exactly the same…
Fortunately many reactions on my adventure are less cramped. Lots of people think it is quite brave to take this big step. Though I am personally not too sure that I will be that brave when I board the plane to Nairobi in January…
But of course! Just like all European men are exactly the same…
Fortunately many reactions on my adventure are less cramped. Lots of people think it is quite brave to take this big step. Though I am personally not too sure that I will be that brave when I board the plane to Nairobi in January…
A long cherished dream
Working and living overseas has been a dream to me ever since I was a child.
Coincidence does not exist, but I ran into the opening of Research and Communication Officer at the Coalition for Peace in Africa purely by coincidence. A placement that fits my academic training, my personal interest and my experience in communication and PR. The dream that I have been cherishing for a long time is now becoming a reality: I will be following my ideals, my personal ambition and, above all, my heart.
Coincidence does not exist, but I ran into the opening of Research and Communication Officer at the Coalition for Peace in Africa purely by coincidence. A placement that fits my academic training, my personal interest and my experience in communication and PR. The dream that I have been cherishing for a long time is now becoming a reality: I will be following my ideals, my personal ambition and, above all, my heart.
African star
We met in Kenya and became friends in Uganda. A close friendship grew into real love in Tanzania. Born and raised in totally different circumstances, but soul mates nevertheless. Despite the distance, the cultural differences and personal misfortune, this unique love has stood firm for over two years now. Thanks to both the KLM and the extensive mobile network that is spread all over East Africa.
Now we are getting the opportunity to live and work closer to each other: during the next two years I am residing in Kenya, home of my African star.
Now we are getting the opportunity to live and work closer to each other: during the next two years I am residing in Kenya, home of my African star.
Out of Africa?
In search of my own Out of Africa-experience I returned to Kenya in April 2006. A starting romance, camping in the bush, campfires, starry nights and memorable encounters with the wildlife – it was all there.
But there is so much more to Africa than just this idyllic picture. The real beauty of Africa can be found in its inhabitants. What struck me the most during my travels throughout Africa, was the spirit of the Africans. Africa is a continent filled with talent. Poverty, lack of material wealth and traumas from past and present cannot be disregarded. But where you would expect bitterness, most Africans turn out to remain truly positive. That is a power that is giving inspiration and hope for the future. Africa is not a lost continent, but a continent full of potential. Where the Africans themselves need to get the chance to let their own continent flourish, using their own talent.
But there is so much more to Africa than just this idyllic picture. The real beauty of Africa can be found in its inhabitants. What struck me the most during my travels throughout Africa, was the spirit of the Africans. Africa is a continent filled with talent. Poverty, lack of material wealth and traumas from past and present cannot be disregarded. But where you would expect bitterness, most Africans turn out to remain truly positive. That is a power that is giving inspiration and hope for the future. Africa is not a lost continent, but a continent full of potential. Where the Africans themselves need to get the chance to let their own continent flourish, using their own talent.
Reunion in Kenya
21 April 2006: Reunion in Kenya, in an Africa that is boiling hot as ever (in every sense). And what can I say? It is amazing, close as ever, but sometimes it can be hard, leaving me feeling lonely even. At the same time this is the perfect way to get to know the real Africa. Do as the locals do, a fantastic way to experience Kenya.
(extract from travel journal dated 24 April 2006)
(extract from travel journal dated 24 April 2006)
The love remains
10 December 2005: A painful goodbye to Africa, again. In any case, Africa is still on my mind, giving me reasons enough to return – for that balloon safari during the Migration, for the climbing of the Kili, for another 100 bush camps at least, for those breathtaking African nights full of stars…
(extract from travel journal dated 10 December 2005, when finishing a trip through Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania)
(extract from travel journal dated 10 December 2005, when finishing a trip through Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania)
The first time
8 November 2003: Departure from Africa. A special journey, due to both the overwhelming beauty of nature and the unprecedented kindness and friendliness of the locals. Dusty trip. At least once a day I found myself sighing ‘This is Africa!’ (due to inefficiency or other illogical inconvenience).
It was not love at first sight, but I have grown to love Africa deeply.
(extract from travel journal dated 8 November 2003, when finishing a trip through South-Africa, Mozambique, Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe)
It was not love at first sight, but I have grown to love Africa deeply.
(extract from travel journal dated 8 November 2003, when finishing a trip through South-Africa, Mozambique, Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe)
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